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- GLENLIVET CITY LIKES COMING TO CHICAGO
- MIKE MILLER OF DELILAH'S
WELCOMES YOU TO THE KENTUCKY BOURBON COUNTRY
- FAREWELL TO BOOKER NOE
- LAPHROAIG & LAGAVULIN
- MIKE MILLER'S "EXTREMELY BOURBON"
- IRISH WHISKEY
GLENLIVET CITY LINKS
The Glenlivet City Links is an urban-scaled golf
course housed in a 10,000 square foot space in New York City. The
course features nine holes sloped with water hazards, bridges and
sand traps, providing urban golf enthusiasts with an extraordinary
chance to hit the turf in the heart of Manhattan.
The Glenlivet City Links kicked off in Times
Square, hosting the public for three weeks, before traveling
to four other cities across the United States, including Chicago
for 2 weeks in December. Designed for golf enthusiasts in urban
settings with limited access to greens, there are no set green fees
to play on The Glenlivet City Links; instead a
‘pay-as-you-will’ policy has been implemented to benefit
Direct Relief International to aid the victims
of Hurricane Katrina.
MIKE MILLER WELCOMES YOU
TO THE KENTUCKY BOURBON COUNTRY
Ah, Bourbon - America’s only native spirit
represents a community of people and places steeped in tradition.
Prior to prohibition America boasted hundreds of distilleries producing
a multitude of various sorts of whiskey, however a change drinking
habits globally but especially in this country after prohibition
led to a demise in the consumption and thus production of American
whiskey.
Fortunately, over the course of the last decade or so, we have seen
a massive resurgence of interest in American whiskey and a significant
rise in consumption globally and the reintroduction of lost brands
and the development of new, dynamic, modern American whiskies. There
has not been a more interesting time to be involved in American
whiskey making - and drinking, since the turn of the century.
Another real bright spot in today's American whiskey industry has
been the availability of the people behind the brands, to the consumer
- not only can you enjoy a fine glass of Elmer T. Lee
bourbon, but you can meet him at Bourbonfest and
get a feel for the personality in the bottle - I don’t know
of another spirit sector where this is more true. With personalities
like the incomparable, and sadly late Booker Noe
and the current legacy of friendly Freddy Noe, Maker’s
Mark’s gleaming Bill Samuel’s,
Wild Turkey’s fantastic Jimmy Russell,
the expertise of Heaven Hill’s Parker Beam
and son Craig Beam, Barton’s race calling
Bill Friel and the youngest master distiller in
the industry Greg Davis, the brilliance of Julian
and Preston Van Winkle, the gentlemanly Lincoln
Henderson of Brown Forman, Jack Daniels' stoic Jimmy
Bedford, Four Roses astute Jim Rutledge,
and of course Buffalo Trace’s Elmer T. Lee
and Gary Gayheart, it’s no wonder people
travel from all corners of the globe to experience
American whiskey at Bourbonfest.
There really is no other spirit in the world where the distillers
are so apparent and this is just the tip of the icecube, the community
of people surrounding the American whiskey industry is unparalleled.
Certainly, this is largely due to the proximity of the distilleries
in a relatively small part of the country, but there is true camaraderie
amongst these people. Even though they are each others competition,
they exist as one in many ways, as represented primarily by the
unity of the Kentucky Distillers Association and
a truly good natured business environment.
As I write this I am preparing to again visit Bardstown,
Kentucky - the home base of Bourbon whiskey,
the location of the Oscar Getz Museum of Whiskey History
and the center of The Kentucky Bourbon Festival.
This is the greatest and largest gathering of Bourbon producers
and enthusiasts anywhere in the world - An unparalleled opportunity
to sample every whiskey the industry has to offer while interacting
with the community that makes it happen and experience the global
reach Bourbon has achieved, with its growing popularity in Asia,
Europe and Australia.
I also relish the ability to visit each distillery, interact with
the fermenting mash and taste the Bourbon right from the barrel.
But what I am looking forward to the most is the ability to visit
with the Bourbon world's unusual personalities, have a drink with
them and share in the lives that exist in those bottles of whiskey.
Cheers!
Mike Miller
Delilah’s - Chicago, USA
LAPHROAIG & LAGAVULIN
by Dr. D’Og Am fear a ni obair na thràth
Bidh e na leth-thàmh. Or as my editor would say:
He who does his work in time will always have leisure time
Speaking of leisure, the interesting thing about Scotch whisky is
how much work goes into producing it, then how much time is spent
waiting for it to mature. Resting in the barrels is a term used
to describe how whisky matures as it sits in a warehouse, mixing
with the wood resins and previous materials that also aged in the
casks. How could two whiskies, located within hundreds of yards
of one another, end us so different?
A good question, and one that has never wholly been answered. Take
Laphroaig and Lagavulin, two of the giants
of Islay, the small island west of Glasgow, home of fishermen, farmers,
distillers and, of course, smugglers.
Laphroaig, owned by Allied Domecq PLC,
is the quintessential Islay malt: Oily, full bodied, heavily peated
(smoked) and with a distinctly iodine-like nose. This, as has been
so often stated, is not a whisky for the fainthearted. The strange
thing is how many first time drinkers actually like Laphroaig. People
who would normally drink vodka take to Laphroaig like an olive to
a martini. Established in 1815 (but not officially licensed until
1825 according to Graham Nown in his book on whisky), Laphroaig
was owned by the Johnston family from its official inception until
1847, then taken over and operated by members of the Johnston family
from 1856-1954. Laphroaig also boasts of having one of the foremost
women in the history of whisky, Miss Bessie Williamson
(who was also known as Mrs. Wishart Campbell),
running the distillery from 1954 until the 1960's, when Laphroaig
acquired by a series of larger companies.
Lagavulin's history, on the other hand, is a bit
more complicated. There were actually two Lagavulin Distilleries
on the site, according to Moss & Hume. The
earliest was founded by yet another Johnston (John),
and ceased operation around 1833. The second Lagavulin was founded
in 1817 by Archibald Campbell. By 1837, only one
Lagavulin was in operation, owned by Donald Johnston.
When what was to become White Horse Distillers Ltd.
took over Lagavulin Distillery in 1867, the stage was set for a
rivalry between the two massive malts of Islay (with apologies to
Ardbeg.) Lagavulin became a part of the huge Distillers
Company Ltd. in 1927, and is currently owned by Diageo
PLC. The 16 year old Lagavulin is more
complex, rounded and sweeter than Laphroaig, boasting a powerful
smoky flavor balanced with a burnt, toasty, almost spicy profile.
The age difference (16 versus 10 for Laphroaig) accounts for some
of the differences, but these two malts would never be mistaken
for one another. Yet there they sit, less than a mile apart, producing
vastly different whiskies. And no one still can explain why.
FAREWELL TO BOOKER NOE
By RUSS BRIDENBAUGH
The world would be a lesser place without the formidable
presence of Frederick Booker Noe, Jr, a Kentuckian
and a legend in his own time." ( My opening sentence from an
article about Booker Noe for the Indianapolis Star
in 1999.)
Well, I am sorry to say, the world is a lesser place. Booker Noe
died of complications from diabetes on Feb. 24, at his home in Bardstown,
Kentucky. The world has lost a legend and bourbon has lost part
of its heart and soul. Born in 1929 (on Pearl Harbor day), youthful
Booker was known as "Hard Times". Later he would be known
to just about everybody as "Booker".
He began making whiskey in 1951 and one uncle
after observing him work, replied to a fellow family member, "That
boy's got a real knack for it." Something of an understatement
as Jim Beam's grandson moved steadily up the bourbon
ladder to become Master Distiller. There is something
very elegant and southern about Bourbon, and so it was with Booker.
A true southern gentleman, I never heard him utter a negative thought,
or as one of his friends put it to me, "Booker won't say anything
bad about anything or anybody."
If you were lucky, you would get an invitation to Booker's home
in Bardstown. Just seeing that 3 story spiral, wooden staircase
in the foyer would nearly take your breath away. Every time I got
to go to Booker’s, I'd make a point of walking up that staircase
to the third floor. In a way, that staircase was like the man--from
the ground up and elegant and polished and a wonder to behold.
He was a big man physically and otherwise--certainly up to the tasks
that came before him and especially responsible for the rejuvenation
of the entire bourbon spirit industry with the introduction of True
Barrel Bourbon (now referred to as "Small
Batch Bourbon") in 1987. He called it "Booker's"
as was appropriate and Small Batch Bourbons started hitting the
market in a big way. Like Booker they were big, well formed and
elegant. With one in hand, one had to have the right glass--crystal.
To dilute them with anything but branch water was a sin.
If you were REAL lucky, you got invited to taste bourbon right out
of the barrels in the ageing warehouses at Jim Beam Distillery
in Claremont, KY. Ten o'clock in the morning, fifth floor of the
warehouse, 90 degrees in mid-July and drinking cask strength bourbon
with Booker right out of the barrel--and no place to spit. That
was an experience. But the real experience was lunch at Booker's
house. One soon learned that you didn't try to match Booker when
it came to size of food portions (or second helpings). Sharing the
table with Booker was a special treat and many have had that treat
during Booker's "retirement" as Ambassador of Bourbon
when he stopped making whiskey in 1992, and took the bourbon message
literally all over the world.
Booker Noe is survived by his wife and son and
is missed by all of us who had the honor of basking in the sunshine
of his immense shadow.
IRISH WHISKEY
By Alan Dikty,
BEVERAGE TESTING INSTITUTE The Scots most likely learned
about distilling from the Irish (though they are loath to admit
it). The Irish in turn learned about it, according to the Irish
at least, from missionary monks who arrived in Ireland in the seventh
century. The actual details are a bit sketchy for the next 700 years
or so, but it does seem reasonable to believe that monks in the
various monasteries were distilling aqua vitae ("water of life"),
primarily for making medical compounds. These first distillates
were probably grape or fruit brandy rather than grain spirit. Barley-based
whiskey (the word derives from “uisce beatha,” the Gaelic
interpretation of “aqua vitae”) first appears in the
historical record in the mid-1500s when the Tudor kings began to
consolidate English control in Ireland. Queen Elizabeth I was said
to be fond of it and had casks shipped to London on a regular basis.
The imposition of an excise tax in 1661 had the same effect as it
did in Scotland, with the immediate commencement of the production
of poteen (the Irish version of moonshine). This did not, however,
slow down the growth of the distilling industry, and by the end
of the 18th century there were over 2,000 stills in operation around
the country.
Under British rule, Ireland was export oriented and, along with
grains and assorted foodstuffs, Irish distillers produced large
quantities of pot-distilled whiskey for export into the expanding
British Empire. Irish whiskey outsold Scotch whisky in most markets
because it was lighter in body. It is said that in the late 19th
century over 400 brands of Irish whiskey were being exported and
sold in the United States.
This happy state of affairs for Irish distillers lasted into the
early 20th century when the market began to change. The Irish distillers,
pot still users to a man, were slow to respond to the rise of blended
Scotch whisky with its column-distilled, smooth grain whisky component.
When National Prohibition in the United States closed off Irish
whisky’s largest export market, many of the smaller distilleries
closed. The remaining distilleries then failed to adequately anticipate
the coming of Repeal (unlike the Scotch distillers) and were caught
short without adequate stocks when it came. The Great Depression,
trade embargoes between the newly independent Irish Republic and
the United Kingdom, and World War II caused further havoc among
the distillers.
In 1966 the three remaining distilling companies in the Republic
of Ireland—Powers, Jameson, and Cork Distilleries—merged
into a single company, Irish Distillers Company (IDC).
In 1972, Bushmills, the last distillery in Northern
Ireland, joined IDC. In 1975 IDC opened a new mammoth distillery
at Midleton, near Cork, and all of the other distilleries in the
Republic were closed down with the production of their brands being
transferred to Midleton. For a 14-year period, the Midleton plant
and Bushmills in Northern Ireland were the only distilleries in
the country.
This sad state of affairs ended in 1989 when a potato-peel ethanol
plant in Dundalk was converted into a whiskey distillery. The new
Cooley Distillery began to produce malt and grain
whiskeys, with the first three-year-old bottlings being released
in 1992.
Irish whiskeys, both blended and malt, are usually triple distilled
through both column and pot stills, although there are a few exclusively
pot-distilled brands. Irish Pure Pot Still Whiskey
is generally labeled as such. Otherwise, Irish whiskeys are a mix
of pot and column-distilled whiskeys. Irish Malt Whiskey is likewise
so designated. Standard Irish Whiskey is a blend of malt and grain
whiskies.
© 2001-2004 Beverage Testing Institute. All rights reserved.
AN EXTREMELY BOURBON by
MIKE MILLER
By MICHAEL MILLER – DELILAH’S What a
wonderful time to be a bourbon drinker. Over the course of a decade
we have seen more innovation in this sector than during any other
period since prohibition. Though we can only go and visit a dozen
or so American whiskey distilleries, we are graced with over a hundred
unique commercially available expressions of Bourbon whiskey. So
let’s take a quick look at how and why have we gotten to this
point and which whiskies you should be keeping an eye out for.
Before prohibition there were hundreds of whiskey producers in America,
making hundreds of brands of different whiskies. Diversity was clearly
not an issue then, however, one significant difference between pre
and post-prohibition American whiskies is the aging requirements
to be considered Bourbon, or Rye for that matter, and the availability
of older expressions of the commercially produced whiskies. We are
certainly aware of the devastating toll prohibition took on this
country - the massive loss of jobs, the significant creation of
organized crime, the extermination of the majority of American distilleries,
but we need to also recognize what changes were determined and thus
created immediately following prohibition. Firstly, making vodka
is easy, so bootlegging clear, neutral spirits - i.e., bathtub gin,
was simple and created a dominant market for these spirits after
the mistake was over. Furthermore, lighter bodied Canadian whiskies
were immediately available as were Scotch & Irish whiskies,
meanwhile it would take an arduous four years to bring fresh America
whiskey back to the market. Also, old stocks of Bourbon were returned
to their proper distillery and released into the market as new brands,
but these sixteen year old plus Bourbons - though fabulous, were
nothing like the whiskies which were popular prior to prohibition,
as Bourbon was previously taxed each year in the barrel, so rarely
was anything over four years old. This situation created what would
become a downward spiral of closed distilleries and lost markets
for American whiskies for decades.
Let’s skip ahead now to the wine cooler days of the early
1980’s. America had experienced another world war, a few particularly
nasty conflicts, a cold war, which just seemed to go on forever
and the disappearance of most of America’s whiskey making
traditions. People just weren’t drinking as much and their
tastes for light beer, sweet drinks and clear spirits were driving
the whiskey industry out of business. This country was down to fewer
than twenty operating whiskey distilleries by the early 1980’s
and the distilleries that were still operating were holding an extraordinarily
high amount of product in barrel - the tax structure having changed,
no longer taxing the whiskey until bottled.
And then something remarkable happened, Small Batch Bourbon.
The rise of the American whiskey category in general over the past
decade is exactly mirrored by the introduction of reasonably priced
and extremely interesting expressions of Bourbon whiskey. I credit
a few distinct situations that were developed by a few very dynamic,
forward thinking producers/distillers.
Within the ground breaking Small Batch Bourbon
collection released by the Jim Beam company in
the early nineties, Bookers must stand out as the
one that virtually single handedly changed the industry. Named for
Beam’s longtime master distiller and grandson of Jim Beam
himself, the late Booker Noe made available something
complete new to the consumer. Never before was a cask strength,
uncut, un-filtered product – basically straight from the barrel,
made available to the general public - it immediately caused quite
a stir.
I then must recognize the efforts of Bill Samuels
and the people at Makers Mark. If only for the
marketing genius, which changed the perception of Bourbon drinking
forever, starting also in the early nineties, Samuels turned a small,
nitch, very family oriented brand into an international phenomenon.
Again putting focus on the idea of small batch and pedigree, the
developments of these brands led to the explosion of single barrel
Bourbon - led predominantly by Blanton’s,
boutique labels such as A.H. Hirsch, Pappy Van Winkle, Black
Maple Hill and so forth, created a situation that had never
before existed in this sector. We all of a sudden could experience
every possible style, age, and taste profile possible from the dynamic
decision makers in the industry.
Up to the minute, I have seen many attempts to ride this ground
breaking wave of interest in American whiskey, some have continued
to push the envelope, others have come and gone - often because
the old Bourbon has just run out. But either way, fortunately for
us, development in American whiskey continues and in just the last
few years I have been witness to Wild Turkey Russell’s
Reserve, Booker’s Distiller’s Masterpiece finished
in Port barrels, Sazerac 18 year old Rye, Old
Potrero Straight Rye Whiskey, Classic Cask 17 year old
and of course my own Delilah’s Ten Years Strong
single barrel 100 proof unfiltered private label. So let’s
toast the remarkable developments in American whiskey over the previous
decade, support these brands and look forward to what tomorrow may
bring.
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