A
LOOK AT SPATEN - FRANZISKANER
By Adam Warriner
After all, its 600-year tradition makes Spaten
the oldest existing brewery in Munich and one of the oldest in Germany.
Moreover, Spaten has always been at the forefront
of progress in brewing. It was at Spaten that Carl
Linde developed his first refrigerator, and the Spaten
“spade” is one of the oldest trademarks in
the world (1884), making the company a pioneer in the history of
advertising.
Spaten is also a synonym for the history of beer
brewing in Munich. Hardly another brand embodies this tradition
to the same extent as Spaten’s “Münchner
Hell”. Fresh and full-bodied, with an amber colour
and magnificent flavour, this famous lager symbolizes the life-
style of the city and its inhabitants. In 1894 it became the first
beer of its type to enter the market, yet fully adheres to Bavaria’s
“Purity Law” of 1516. It has been Munich’s beer
par excellence for over a century.
The success story began over 600 years ago in Munich. In 1397, the
Munich Tax registry lists a Brewer that would become Spaten.
Over the course of the next few centuries, Spaten
thrived under three brewing dynasties. First the Starnberger
Family (1522-1622), then the Spatt Family (1622-1704),
followed by the Siesmayr family (1704-1807). It
was the Spatt family that gave the Brewery its
present name.
In the 19th, 20th and 21st Centuries, several generations of the
Sedlmayr family of beer brewers (their descendants
still direct the affairs of the company) have controlled the Spaten
brewer. It is this family that brought high regard and much attention
to Spaten. Not only was the Spaten Brewery the
first to use refrigeration, it also is the first to use steam engines
in the brewing process, the first to export its beers via air plane
and the first to brew a light lager beer.
In 1807, Spaten was the smallest of the Munich
Breweries. Under the Sedlmayr family, Spaten
would become Munich’s largest brewery by 1867. A
title they would hold for 13 years.
Spaten would start its worldwide distribution in
1891 when it established a subsidiary in London. By 1909, Spaten
had started regular exportation of Beer to America. Today, Spaten
Beers are available in over 59 countries on 6 continents.
Another one of Spaten’s innovative brews
is Spaten UR-Marzen, more commonly known as Spaten
Oktoberfest bier. In 1872, Spaten developed
this Viennese style malt beer. It was introduced to the Oktoberfest
Beer Barons in 1873 who loved it. To this day, Spaten Oktoberfest
is still served at Munich’s Oktoberfest.
In fact, the first keg of beer tapped at the Oktoberfest
is a Spaten Oktoberfest.
The Munich Oktoberfest – known by the locals
as the “Wiesn” – is the biggest
public festival in the world and was held this year for the 170th
time. Each year, the Oktoberfest is attended by around 6 million
visitors, who drink around 5 million litres of beer and consume
over 200,000 pairs of pork sausages – mostly in the “beer
tents” put up by the 6 traditional Munich brewers.
No other brewery is as conspicuous on the Oktoberfest fairgrounds
as Spaten. Fresh, sparkling Spaten Oktoberfest
beer flows on tap in three large tents and one smaller
one – a taste sensation, accompanied by jaunty music and culinary
treats.
In 1922 Spaten merged with the Franziskaner-Leist
Brewery to form a joint-stock company known as the Spaten-Franziskaner-Leistbräu
AG. Since 1997, Spaten-Franziskaner-Bräu KGaA
is united with Löwenbräu, another of
Munich’s most venerable breweries in Germany. The company’s
brands have proved successful both at home and abroad. One reason
for this is the rapid rise of Franziskaner Weissbier
to the international forefront of Weiss beer brands.
Already late in 1962 the Spaten Brewery had the
idea to produce their own filtered Weiss beer. Then, in 1964, at
the Oktoberfest, the “Spaten Champagner Export Weissbier”
was presented for the very first time. In 1969 the name
was changed to “Club-Weisse”. In the
middle of July 1974, the Spaten Brewery started
also to produce their own unfiltered Hefe-Weissbier.
It was placed on the market under the name Franziskaner
Hefe-Weissbier with the famous Franciscan friar, created
by the Munich artist Ludwig Hohlwein.
Since 1984, the Franziskaner Hefe-Weissbier is
sold as independent brand. The sales growth of Franziskaner
Hefe-Weissbier has improved constantly during the last
30 years. And in fiscal year 2002/ 2003, the Munich Brewery
is proud of having reached the 1 million hectolitre mark for Franziskaner!
All total, the Spaten Brewery produces 4.1 million
hectolitres (108.3 million gallons) of beer. This ranks Spaten
as a top ten Brewery in Germany. Spaten also is among the top 5
breweries exporting beer out of Germany.
All in all, Spaten has survived many wars and epidemics
over its 600 years of history. The brewery is still standing and
continues to brew great German Beers including Spaten Lager,
Spaten Optimator, Spaten Pils, Spaten Oktoberfest, Franziskaner
Hefe Weiss and Franziskaner Hefe Weiss Dunkel.
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PRIVATBRAUEREI STÖTTNER
A Self-Guided Tour & The Perfect Weissbier
by Kristian Huber
I had first met the Stöttner family and tasted their fantastic
beers while I was studying at Doemens. One of my classmates worked
at the Stöttner-bräu in Pfaffenberg,
about ninety-minutes north of Munich, and we had taken some trips
up there together, enjoying their delicious offerings. Andreas
Stöttner, now in his mid-30’s runs the production
with his father, while his mother tends the Stube. The Stöttner’s
always showed enthusiasm at my interest in their brewery; I mean,
how many brewers from Chicago come to Pfaffenberg declaring, “I
tell everyone I know about Stöttner beer!”
I find their openness and generosity an honor, thus completing the
circle.
On this particular visit, I had the good fortune of catching Andreas
in the brewery yard, as he was getting ready to leave for an “appearance”
at a local festival. The absolute commitment to their very loyal
customers is a specialty of the Stöttners, and undoubtedly
one of the many reasons that they are one of the few mid-sized German
breweries that still successful these days.
I greeted him and introduced him to Greg, my brewer-colleague visiting
from the States. On the way to his car, he simply told me to get
the key from under the “secret hiding place” and walk
around the plant at leisure, adding, “you know where everything
is”, then told us not to forget to take a case of beer for
later. Making sure I had heard him correctly, I checked and found
the key exactly where he had said it would be. So I opened the door
and we stepped inside his brewery, looking back just in time to
see him wave as he drove away.
Greg and I were in awe of their new 40HL Brewhouse, its modern conception
a stunning contrast to the traditional values in this region. Mash-Lauter
vessel, kettle, heat-exchanger, and whirlpool were all visible and
inspected by our curious brewer-eyes. We then made our way into
the fermentation cellar where the smell of fermentation was wonderful,
and again, the totally spotless surroundings gave us confidence
that the beers were good and clean. Another very steep stone staircase
downward and into the lagering cellar, 6 meters underground. The
enameled aluminum lagering tanks were stacked two high, and the
sound of natural carbonation was bubbling through the fermentation
locks.
Next, we went up a steep staircase and into the most aromatic room
of the house, the weissbier fermentation room. Two large open stainless
steel tanks were calmly fermenting away the stunning Stöttner
Weissbier. Thick, creamy yeast floated on the tops of the
fermenting beer, and the typical weissbier aromas were prickling
our noses, making Greg and I very thirsty. A short trip through
the recently renovated bottling plant ended our self-guided tour
(of course, we did not forget to pick up a case for a proper sampling).
Later, down in the Stube, Frau Stöttner came
in and told us that we should help ourselves to beer, but the kitchen
was closed for the afternoon. As I poured us a weissbier, I realized
how truly kind and open this wonderful family had been; they had
allowed me into their facility (unaccompanied) and made us feel
very much at home, something of a rarity (I dare say) in the usually
closed-door Germany.
Stöttners Weissbier is their house specialty; a beer that Andreas
(with great foresight) decided to revive in this region after he
completed his degree at Doemens in the mid-90’s. It is pale
in color and very yeasty, the huge chunks of yeast fall to the bottom
of the glass indicating that only a top-fermenting yeast is used.
The aroma is a true wonder to me – banana and pineapple esters
balanced with the spicy phenolics that typify weissbiers..
The targeted low content of CO2 makes it very drinkable indeed.
It has become his flagship brew, giving the brewery the nickname
“the Weissbier Expert”, although a
full range of beers round out the Stöttner portfolio including
the massive “Pfaffenator” Doppelbock,
available in Spring.
A few delightful weissbiers and some Helles later, and we bid farewell
to Frau Stöttner, thanking her for the hospitality.
Then, toasty-buzzed, Greg and I walked (case of beer in hand) to
the train station for the slow ride back to Munich for a night of
conversation and glass after glass of the perfect weissbier.
Privatbrauerei Stöttner D-84066 Mallersdorf-Pfaffenberg,
Germany
www.stoettner.de (Beer sales available from the
warehouse, but, sorry, NO tours.)
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