| -GROWLER'S
PUB
-HOP LUCK
-LEMMINGS & GREEN EYE
-COUNTY CLARE,
52 STAFFORD,...
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GROWLERS PUB:
All the Selection of the World, All the Friendliness of
the Neighborhood
By Warren Crouse
When I met with Vice President Bill Kunz,
it was during Growler’s Pub’s Oktoberfest.
Amidst the craziness that surrounds an event like that I asked Bill
what his favorite beer was. His response with a laugh was, “Whatever
distributor I’m with at the time.” Promptly after that
I lost his attentions to some friendly regulars; a theme that would
reoccur throughout the afternoon, showing how much a man can make
a place.
While waiting, I looked around at the non-traditional décor
of the pub. One of the first things that struck me about Growlers
is the tap handles behind the bar. There are 33 of them at the Growlers
Pub - Sunset Hills location and 32 at the Growlers
Pub - Creve Coeur location, but what makes them unique
is the design. The tap handles are set so close together that Bill
had special handles made. They are all the same spindle shape, made
out of wood, identified by numbers relating to a chalkboard above,
and are mounted on wooden kegs.
The way they handle the beer selection around here is fairly unique
as well. The beer menu is changed twice yearly, once on the Monday
before St. Patrick’s Day and a second time on the third Monday
of September. The Spring-Summer menu reflects a lighter style, includes
Hefeweizen. The Fall-Winter selection finds mainly Bocks, Porter,
and Stouts. And it isn’t just a rotating menu from the year
before. At least 35 beers are changed between the 33 taps and 99
bottles are that carried at any one time. Once Bill tried to do
all of this himself, but he told me it was just too much beer to
drink. The job now has passed to Growlers loyal following of The
Royal Order of Tasters.
The Royal Order of Tasters is a beer
club that is just one-way Bill tries to reward his patrons. It starts
out with a patron drinking any 25 different beers to receive the
title of Honorary Brewmaster. Progress is kept
track of on a card, and when 131 beers are consumed, the card is
full and the patron receives a pewter mug with his or her name on
it. It can be taken home, or left at Growlers to receive a 22 oz
draw for the price of a regular (14 oz). (Bill says ‘why call
it a pint if it is only 14 oz’) Completing more cards results
in Growlers hats, polo shirts, and towels, but when you get to the
4th card, the patron receives a Growlers jacket. The 5th time a
patron gets a 131 Mash Tony Plaque. For the 10th
card completed, the prize is a Seiko watch
with Growlers logo on it, valued at $500. The 15th time (yes there
are 2 people at this level) the reward is a Growlers Neon,
just like the one over the mantle. Bill’s current dilemma
is what to do when someone hits 20 times. He has a few ideas, but
I don’t want to spoil any surprises.
It is from this loyal group that Bill selects the beers. Anyone
from this group can participate as long as they have at least 3
cards completed and can make it on the second Monday in January
and June. This last time there was 45 beers that were blind tasted
and scored by 50 tasters. The highest scored ones stayed, and at
least 35 changed. When it was all done, Bill handed them a six-pack
holder and has them take some for later.
While this results in beer Growlers patrons enjoy, this isn’t
the only reason that keeps them coming back. Growler’s has
a selection of 47 Scotches, including Macallon 25 Year,
Glenmorangie Vintage, and a Glenfiddich 30 Year.
Shots can be bought in full servings, or in half servings. Scotch
sampler platters are also available, as is a selection of fine cigars
to complement the scotch.
Beer specials are also available. Every month they run a feature
beer where $5 buys a regular full of beer that a patron can keep,
with refills only $3.50. Mondays is the $2 regulars special and
Wednesday is Pale of Ale Night where any 6 bottled
beers can be had for $16. Or you can get a mix and match six-packs
to go for 20 percent off. Growlers often has beers that can’t
be gotten elsewhere in St. Louis. Of course there is the Christmas
basket special where a patron can buy $35 basket of beer for $25.
It is also done in $50, $75, and $100 packages. Bill’s philosophy
is simple: “We are constantly trying to come up with new ideas
to keep it fresh.”
It is fresh. In fact there are so many different ways Bill and Sunset
Hills General Manager Pepe Vantreece offer customers to
enjoy beer that is almost tough to participate in all off them.
Of course not every venture or idea is successful. There was a third
Growler’s location that brewed beer for about one year that
eventually closed. Like Bill said, “It is not always right,
and not always popular, but you gotta keep trying.”
It is for reasons like this, and Bill and Pepe’s philosophy
towards their customers, which probably explains why Growlers has
had such a success at the Sunset Hills and Creve Coeur locations.
It might also explain why Growlers has received Best Beer Award
six years in a row from Riverfront Times, and why Cheers Magazine
ranked it as Best Beer Program. Or it could have to do with Pepe
and Bill’s love for the customers. Sometimes just talking
to one of them was impossible for the sheer amount of people stopping
and greeting them. Most of them reiterated over and over how it
is Pepe and Bill that make Growlers such a pleasant place to come
back to. And comeback they do. Growlers is truly a place where almost
everybody knows your name, and the ones that don’t will gladly
ask. The true mark of a pub is where the friendliness of the management
is reflected by its customers and beers are raised at the meeting
of strangers.
GROWLER'S PUB
763 Old Ballas Road St. Louis, MO 63141
(314) 432-3110
GROWLER'S PUB
3811 S. Lindbergh
Boulevard Sappington, MO 63127
314.984.9009
www.growlerspub.com
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Experience a Hopluck Dinner !
by Grant Carlson
Beer Ambassador, Tyranena Brewing Company
For those avid Cream City Suds readers who have not yet made it
to a Hopluck Dinner ™ at Tyranena
Brewing Company, you are missing a truly unique culinary
and beer lover’s experience.
What is a Hopluck Dinner ™ ? It is a fun
and creative twist on the traditional midwestern potluck dinner.
Just bring your favorite dish to share with the masses, or at least
a few fellow beer lovers. All that’s required is that you
make your dish "Legendary" by using Tyranena beer as an
ingredient. Tyranena supplies the dishware, eating utensils and
ambiance. Most important not to forget, a free pint of beer is also
provided to participants who bring a dish to share.
Over the past months the quality of the food and adventurousness
of the Hopluck Dinner participants has been quite impressive. Menus
have run the spectrum from flavorsome appetizers, soups and salads
to fantastic main-dishes and desserts. The list that follows is
just a sampling of what Hopluck Dinner guests at Tyranena have experienced.
Bacon Wrapped Fiery Shrimp (Bitter Woman IPA), Drunken Cabbage
(Fargo Brothers Hefeweizen), Bitter Woman Vindaloo (Bitter Woman
IPA), Ancient Aztalan Peanut Soup (Ancient Aztalan Brown Ale), Chocolate
Porter Cheesecake (Chief BlackHawk Porter), IPA Banana Bread (Bitter
Woman IPA), Beer & Sauerkraut Chocolate Fudge Cake (Fighting
Finches Mai Bock), Pale Ale Batter – Fried Apple Rings (Stone
Tepee Pale Ale), Porter Mocha Ice Cream (Chief BlackHawk Porter),
Spicy Black Bean Chili (Stone Tepee Pale Ale), Onion Alt Curry Dip
(Headless Man Amber Alt), IPA Jello (Bitter Woman IPA), South Of
The “Porter” BBQ (Chief BlackHawk Porter) and
so, so many more amazing dishes there are too many to name!
Past Hopluck Dinners have been made even more spectacular with a
surprise visitor and some very special treats. In the late spring,
“Hopluckers” enjoyed a massive Legendary Crawfish
Boil that included 60 pounds of Louisiana’s finest
crawfish. The crawfish were boiled along with corn, potatoes, mushrooms,
onions and some serious Cajun spices in Fighting Finches
Mai Bock. The resulting delicacy was truly a sight for
the eyes and a real taste sensation! This was something most folks
may not wish to attempt at home, since it required about a half
barrel of beer to make it “Legendary”. Personally I
would have to say it was totally worth it and what’s a half-barrel
of “Legendary Wisconsin Beer” among friends!
“Hopluckers” also got a chance to experience pickled
hops. Shipped direct from Puterbaugh Farms, a fourth
generation hop farming family located in the Yakima Valley of Washington
State. The Peppered Pickled Hop Shoots were something
new and unusual for almost everyone. Those adventurous enough to
try them discovered a fun new way to enjoy one of our favorite beer
ingredients!
Hopluck Dinner participants even had an opportunity to meet a real
Wisconsin beer celebrity. Lucy Saunders, renowned
Food and Beer Writer, and author of Cooking With Beer,
paid Tyranena a special visit. Experiencing the Hopluck Dinner up
close and personal, she brought along a few tasty dishes of her
own to pass. Lucy was even so generous as to include a nice write
up on her website www.beercook.com. Which, I might add, is a perfect
place to find recipes and dish ideas for the next Hopluck Dinner!
The Hopluck Dinner is held on the second Thursday of each month
in the Tasting Room at Tyranena Brewing Company.
Novice Cooks, Masters of the Barbecue and Seasoned Chefs are all
welcome to participate! Dinner begins promptly at 6:30 p.m. and
goes till the food is gone. For directions to the brewery, please
visit Tyranena on the web at www.tyranena.com.
TYRANENA BREWING COMPANY
1025 Owen Street, PO Box 736, Lake Mills WI 53551
www.tyranena.com
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LEMMINGS & GREEN EYE
ANOTHER BUCKTOWN FAVORITE AND ONE TO COME
By Perry Huntoon
Recently, I wrote about The Silver Cloud,
a Bucktown favorite on Damen where I first met owner Ric
Hess. At the time (1994), he was also managing another
bar just up the street. Out of curiosity, we checked it out and
found LEMMINGS, 1850 N. DAMEN (PHONE: 773-862-1688).
The neon Schlitz sign centered in the front window
immediately attracted me. And, sure enough, that brew was on tap
at $1.50 per pint. I wasn’t particularly in love with Schlitz
but at times it was too good a bargain to pass up, particularly
on a hot, humid, summer evening. Come the cooler weather and I was
looking for a Bell’s Amber or the eqivalent. And LEMMINGS
was the place to go. North Damen was just being discovered and it
was an exciting area. LEMMINGS maintained itself as an unpretentious
neighborhood bar. There was an outside chalkboard either proclaiming
a daily special or some witticism. But, as the area became more
vibrant, the bar tended to become more crowded earlier and parking
became problematical. Besides, Schlitz dropped its kegs and the
bar was forced to convert to cans. I am not a lover of canned beer
in bars, only at picnics or sporting events. We drifted on and only
rarely popped back in for a beer or two or three.
Recently, we decided it was time to check LEMMINGS out
again. Told that manager Steve Kopka comes in at
9:00 PM, I popped in one night and was too early to catch him. The
bar was crowded, the crowd was young, and the music was blaring.
I thought, “Uh, Oh, this is no longer my kind of place.”
But, experience has taught me that one visit may not be typical.
I returned a couple of weeks later to find Jim
and Jason Ebel, along with Kevin O’Leary,
all of Two Brothers Brewing Company at the bar.
We had a delightful conversation over a pint of their French
Country Ale. Steve was working the bar and I was able to
introduce myself to him. I looked around and it was much more of
a mixed crowd, age wise. And, I didn’t need to shout to be
heard.
Returning on a recent early Saturday evening, I introduced
myself to the bartender on duty, Matt, and we had a chance to talk
for a few minutes while it was still quiet time.
With about ten taps, most feature American micro-brews
with a couple of imports thrown in. Miller Lite
is there just to remind you that this is Chicago and Three
Floyd’s Alpha King is on a hand pull. PBR
is the low price tap beer. Schlitz is still available,
and quite popular, but still in cans. That seems to be the way the
customers like it.Talking with Steve again at a later date brought
home to me an understanding of LEMMINGS success. While Bucktown
has changed, the bar still maintains its appeal to the older regulars
and yet still manages to attract a newer, somewhat younger, crowd.
You never know what any given night will bring, but you can be assured
that it will be a friendly grouping and you can most always fit
right in.
GREEN EYE LOUNGE
Of great interest is the news of a new Bucktown bar opening probably
in mid-to-late August. THE GREEN EYE LOUNGE, 2403 W. HOMER
will be right at the Milwaukee/Western Blue Line “L”
stop and a short block south of Armitage. While, technically, the
western limit of Bucktown is generally considered to be the center
of Western Avenue, this could place the bar on the fringe of Humboldt
Park. But, for all intents and purposes, it will be a neighborhood
Bucktown style pub. The former bar occupying the premises is now
being rehabbed (this means the loss of yet another hanging Old
Style sign) and should look quite attractive when finished.
Like LEMMINGS, it will most likely feature a low price “retro”
plus a decent selection of micro and mainstream beers. No need for
a kitchen either, as the location is only steps away from pizza,
tacos or hamburgers (both McDonalds and White Castle). Incidentally,
if you are curious about the name, “Green Eye” is an
old railroad term meaning “go ahead.” It seems apt considering
the pub’s location right alongside the ”L.” We
will look forward checking out this new entry and probably adding
it to our list of favorites.
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JULIE WICHMAN’S MILWAUKEE BEER &
FOOD REVIEW:
COUNTY CLARE
When the food review crew heard that one of our
beermeister pals from Germany had gotten enough cash from a dearly
departed uncle that he could fly to Milwaukee and visit us, we were
thrilled. After all, we don’t often get the chance to splurge
someone else’s inheritance on our bimonthly beer-and-food-tasting
parties. Lukas did some online research on Milwaukee’s best
places to stay and chose County Clare, the downtown
Milwaukee Irish inn that enjoys a well-deserved international reputation
for its bed-and-breakfast ambience, fabulous décor and amenities,
and a world-class restaurant and pub.
The six of us agreed we'd be happy to spend some of Lukas’s
new windfall at County Clare, so we headed to 1234
North Astor Street and racked up a fat Guinness
tab by the time Lukas could unpack and sit down with us. Fortunately
for our generous friend, County Clare provides excellent value for
the dollar, especially when you consider its outstanding food, drinks
and service.
Those of us who’d never dined at County Clare
had looked forward to testing the Guinness first. As every Guinness
aficionado knows, the quality of the pour can vary from pub to pub.
That was also the case in Ireland years ago, when pubs invited expert
beer tasters to critique the pints and suggest improvements. The
tradition continues today through visits from Guinness representatives,
who rate every little detail in a pub’s quest for producing
a perfect pint: storage methods, the type of glass used, temperature,
texture, dispensing technique, height of the head and, most important,
taste. County Clare scores top marks in all areas. Proof is on the
wall near the entryway, displaying County Clare’s
“Perfect Pint Award” from Guinness.
But the better proof was in our own tastebuds. And after our first
round of perfect pints when we still could appreciate sweet and
bitter nuances of this velvety ambrosia, we branched out into the
Irish Draft Specialties listed on County Clare’s beer menu.
Along with the well-known Black & Tan and Half
& Half, there’s the Snake Bite (Strongbow
Cider and Harp), Black Velvet (Guinness and
Strongbow Cider), Shandie (Harp and Sprite),
Black Guinness (Guinness with black currant extract),
Lady Guinness (a half-pint of Guinness with
a shot of Chambord Black Raspberry Liqueur),
Diesel (Harp and cider with a shot of black currant)
and an Irish Lunch Box: Bailey’s
and Jameson dropped into a half-pint of Guinness
Stout.
Guys, don’t let the name “Lady Guinness” stop
you from sampling it. OK, the glass looks elegant and somewhat girly,
but the Guinness-plus-Chambord mix didn’t dissolve one hair
on my manly-man husband’s chest when he tried my Lady Guinness
and then ordered one for himself. He enjoyed it because he finds
Guinness just a little on the bitter side for his tastes, and the
raspberry liqueur lends a slight tart-sweetness to perfectly balance
the bitter. We also tried a Black & Tan, a Half & Half and
a Black Guinness, each of which pleased us so much that we lost
all inhibitions and veered off into the hard stuff. If you can get
a room upstairs or a ride home, try one or more of the 11 Irish
whiskeys or eight single-malt scotches including Glenfiddich
12-year or Macallan Cask Strength (15-year) varieties.
Beers on draft other than Guinness include Harp, Bass, Beamish,
Murphy’s, Carlsberg, Boddingtons, New Castle, McEwens, John
Courage, Molings, Ohara’s and Golsch,
among others. Highly recommended are one of the authentic Celtic
beers: Curim Celtic Wheat, Ohara’s Celtic Stout
and Moling’s. Ohara’s Celtic
Stout won the Millennium Brewing Industry International
Award for being the “finest stout and beer in the
world.” Maybe it’s because of the “clear Irish
water,” or perhaps the “traditional stout hops with
an extra ping of roast barley … the dry stout’s malt
sweetness balances the roast bite.” Curim
uses a 1,200-year-old original Celtic wheat beer recipe, and was
originally brewed by the early Celtic inhabitants of the Barrow
Valley in Southeastern Ireland. Moling’s
is a traditional Celtic Red Ale, named after the
monks of the Celtic St. Moling’s Monastery.
Nonalcoholic bottled brews include Haake Beck and
Kaliber. Or try an Irish soft drink: Lucozade
(Ireland’s Gatorade), Lilt (pineapple and
grapefruit), Club Rock Sandy (lemon and orange),
or Club Orange. Irish teas are available as well.
The wine list features six reds, four whites and one rose. Much
appreciated is the explanation for each wine; “green apple,
citrus, and floral flavors” describe Bridgeview Bluemoon
Reisling, for instance. Bunratty Meade
from Ireland lives up to its reputation with its mix of white wine,
honey and herbs. County Clare serves it on the rocks, up or hot.
It was steamy outside when we visited County Clare, so the restaurant’s
fireplace was off and we didn’t indulge in one of the hot
drinks the restaurant is famous for. But when it again comes time
to don your gay woolen apparel, step out to County Clare for a B-52
Stafford (Bailey’s, coffee, Kahlua, Grand
Marnier), a Hot Whiskey or a Hot Cider.
The warm weather couldn’t stop us from ordering soup, as Lukas
told us he’d heard all the way over in Germany that County
Clare offers the best root soup in this hemisphere. The menu says
Irish Root Soup is “a puree of sweet potatoes,
carrots and leeks.” We also tasted garlic, cream, and seasonings.
The thick, orange soup arrived with a shamrock drawn on top in heavy
cream. The soup has an addictively smooth, velvety texture. After
an initial burst of tart and sweet flavor, a warm spicy aftertaste
lingers. It’s easy to see why this is a County Clare signature
dish.
For an appetizer we ordered Bradan, which are Irish
smoked salmon fillets served on toast points. It’s a very
pretty presentation, with lemon wedges, fried capers and dill cream
sauce. Multicolor confetti sprinkles around the platter included
minced chive, red pepper, green onion, red onion and fresh herbs.
Thick slices of super-fresh, neatly folded salmon lay atop hearty
slabs of whole-grain bread. The crunchy capers provided contrast
to the soft fish, and the dill cream sauce brought all the flavors
together. Other appetizers are Potato Skins, Dumplings,
Crispy Reuben Rolls, Mussels and Chicken Shannon.
For my entrée I ordered the Irish Stew:
substantial hunks of lamb with carrots and onions, served in a ceramic
crock and topped with slivers of fried potato. I ate my stew with
only a spoon; I didn’t need the fork because the lamb slabs
are so tender you can cut into them with a spoon. A side of herbed
mashed potatoes had just the right amount of lumps.
I tried some of Grandma Flanigan’s Pot Roast
from Lukas’ plate, and judged that it tasted as good as the
stew. The meat was almost at the shred-tender stage, yet it held
together well. Its meaty Guinness gravy has just a bit of hot spice
(it could be white pepper) to offer a flash of zing on the tongue.
Follow it with a swallow of Guinness, and that’s all you need
for true happiness in this moment.
Shepherd’s Pie was among the best I’ve
tasted. Baked underneath a golden topping of mashed potatoes is
a huge mass of spicy beef with carrots, onions and peas. The pie
and other entrees come with fresh, homemade-style bread and whipped
lemony butter.
Among the eight sandwiches are three types of Reubens and an Irish
Smoked Salmon Sandwich on toasted whole wheat bread.
Grilled Vegetable Salad is large enough to be ordered as an entree,
or shared between two diners as an appetizer. Don’t skip this
brightly colorful treat. A 10-inch platter was heaped with crisp-tender
vegetables served warm on top of baby greens. Its pleasant flavor
came from a light blend of spices and a sprinkle of gorgonzola cheese.
Next time we’ll try the Irish Smoked Salmon Salad
and the Grilled Chicken Spinach Salad.
Dumplings are listed as an appetizer, but like
the salad, they also turned out to be a fine choice as a main dish.
In fact, the word “dumpling” doesn’t do justice
to these beauties. They need to be called a word that sounds more
delicious, as they’re nothing like the little yellow bombs
that float in your chicken soup. Four large, hearty patties made
with Irish brown bread are stuffed with gorgonzola cheese, topped
with white wine cream sauce and fried sweet potato slivers. A smattering
of baby greens fills out the plate. The rich cheese is whipped to
a wispy lightness, and the sauce reminded me of a light Hollandaise
with just a touch of lemon.
County Clare’s atmosphere and ambience are yet another draw.
It’s a popular gathering spot for tourists and locals alike,
with a good balance of upbeat excitement and quietly attentive service;
warm and cozy yet spacious enough to contain hordes of bar patrons,
diners and a band on live-music nights. Front windows glow with
20 stained-glass panels of Irish crests of each province. A small,
comfortable area off to the side called the Saint’s Snug holds
the fireplace and bigger stained-glass windows of St. Brigid and
St. Kevin. Add walls filled with fun signage, pictures and more,
and there’s a lot to look at and
experience here. Lone travelers will never feel lonely.
ROCHESTER INN & 52 STAFFORD,...
Owner Cary James (“Rip”) O’Dwanny
makes it his business to ensure every guest will want to return
to County Clare. The inn has earned countless critical accolades
from world travelers; rooms and suites are beautifully decorated
with classic furnishings; each room has a double whirlpool bath.
Staff members are well-trained and professional yet make guests
feel as welcome as good friends.
As president of the development firm Harp & Eagle Ltd.,
based in Milwaukee, O’Dwanny enjoys similar success with the
company's other Irish inns, located in Wisconsin and in Ireland.
Visit www.harpandeagle.com for pictures and information
about each of these inns, and you’ll want to plan a getaway
as soon as possible.
The Greek Revival building housing the Rochester Inn
in Sheboygan Falls, Wisconsin dates back to the 1840s and is part
of the village’s Cole Historical District. The “Classiest
Little Inn” has six suites; most are two stories and as large
as 600 square feet. A double whirlpool bath, evening hors d’oeuvres
and a hearty breakfast in your room are included, making Rochester
Inn a beautifully romantic B&B spot less than an hour north
of Milwaukee.
52 Stafford Irish Guest House located in Plymouth,
Wisconsin is not far from Milwaukee, but guests feel like they’re
in another world – definitely an Irish one. This inn echoes
County Clare’s attention to authentic Irish artistic details,
professionalism in service, a fun pub and upscale dining. It’s
building dates from 1892 and was originally built to be a hotel.
Like County Clare and Rochester Inn, the rooms include whirlpool
baths. My husband and I discovered 52 Stafford by accident while
meandering through Kettle Moraine towns one Sunday afternoon. We
checked in and stayed for four days, wishing we could live there.
The peak experience of Harp & Eagle’s inns
is Castledaly Manor Estate in Athlone, County Westmeath,
Ireland. This 220-year-old manor house sits on 27 acres of forest
and pasture land; on the grounds are nine-foot stone walls surrounding
huge gardens, 18th-century outbuildings and much more. Day tours
include the Cliffs of Moher, Galway (home of the Claddagh ring),
Ireland’s oldest monastic site Clonmacnoise, Dublin and Kilkenny.
But guests have a wonderful time even if they don’t venture
outdoors: they get live traditional music, turf-burning fireplaces,
stunning guest room decor and of course the warm hospitality that
beckons travelers to return again and again to all of Harp
& Eagle's Irish inns.
COUNTY CLARE
1234 North Astor Street, Milwaukee WI
ROCHESTER INN
Shebogan Falls, WI
52 STAFFORD
52 Stafford Street, Plymouth, WI
CASTLEDALY
Athlone, County Westmeath, Ireland.
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